Culloden, Clava Cairns, and a long walk home

I'm in Ullapool now, actually having a rest day. It's 31.5 pm and I'm in bed! It seemed like it was finally time. 

Yesterday, I went to Culloden Battlefield, and found a field, which one remaining cottage, and a huge concrete visitor's centre explaining what happened here, which I mostly knew already. I am sure there is plenty in there for a trained archaeologist, but not for an amateur observer like me. The internet describes the place as brooding and myserious an I can assure you that it certainly isn't. I left, and went to find Clava Cairns.

On the way I stopped in at the nearby Battlefield Inn, where I had a pint of the locally-made 'SCOTS DEFEAT' lager and a 'WE GOT BEATEN BY THE ENGLISH' burger. 

Jokes aside, it is a bit sad the way the Scots cash in on their own inglorious demise at Culloden in 1746. I'd rather see a new-brand Scottish business go up than a slightly retrograde and twee one. I have just spoken to a local McKenzie woman here in Ullapool who was delighted to tell me that one of the Ye Olde Highland Kitche stores closed down and was replaced by a new gin distillery. It's not 1746 any more, guys. 

Clava Cairns were wonderful - part of a much larger complex of Bronze Age burial cairns and stone rings that stand above the River Nairn. The Scottish Heritage folks will let you go two tow of them and I did that. Even despite the larger number of tourists they were still very evocative. They are now one of my favourite archaeological sites, taking a top spot pretty quickly. 

The walk back was...interesting. I had fun in the small villages near Culloden, and on the banks of the Moray Firth, checking out the views and the birds and so on, but then got tangled up in a train line and a massive of roundabouts and slogged my way back into Inverness by about 8pm. It was a long day. 

Ullapool is a beautiful town, I have a meal booked at a seafood restaurant tonight and then at 9pm I will see a local accordion player who is apparently a bit of a nutter. Tomorrow I am on the ferry to Stornoway, where a hire car awaits. 

Might have a hunt about for an Osprey this evening. Apparently, they are around in Loch Broom. I'd love to see one.